Glossary

The Puréality Glossary is your comprehensive guide to understanding the dermocosmetic ingredients used in our skincare formulations. It provides clear definitions of active ingredients, biotechnology concepts and fundamental principles that underpin the efficacy of each product.

This detailed glossary explores how ingredients interact within our dermocosmetic formulations and their essential role in maintaining optimal skin balance. Whether you are passionate about dermocosmetics or simply curious to learn more, this glossary is designed to provide you with in-depth knowledge of the science and innovation behind Puréality.

A

Adaptogenic Plants

Plants capable of surviving extreme environmental conditions.

In cosmetics, they are used for their ability to strengthen skin resistance to environmental stress.

AHA – Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (Fruit Acids)

A family of water-soluble organic acids used in dermatology and cosmetics to stimulate cellular renewal.

They act by reducing corneocyte cohesion, facilitating the removal of dead skin cells, improving skin radiance and refining skin texture.

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

A naturally derived prebiotic designed to support the balance of the cutaneous microbiome.

It promotes the growth of beneficial commensal micro-organisms, contributing to ecosystem stability, reinforcement of the skin barrier and improved skin tolerance.

B

Bakuchiol

A plant-derived molecule extracted from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia.

Scientific data indicate that it acts on biological pathways similar to retinol, particularly in regulating keratinisation and cellular renewal, without inducing the irritation commonly associated with retinoids.

It also exhibits anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and sebum-regulating properties, making it suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin.

Beta-Glucan (including Oat Beta-Glucan)

A natural polysaccharide recognised for its soothing and repairing properties.

It modulates inflammatory responses, supports skin barrier repair and improves hydration. It is particularly suitable for sensitive, reactive or compromised skin.

Betaine

A plant-derived osmoprotectant, commonly extracted from sugar beet.

It helps skin cells maintain their water balance under environmental stress, thereby reducing dryness and irritation.

Bifida Ferment Lysate

A non-viable probiotic ferment used for its action on the skin barrier.

It helps improve skin resilience, strengthens defence mechanisms and supports microbiome balance.

BIOME-RXCELL™

A patented complex combining rhodiola native cells derived from biotechnology with an encapsulated prebiotic.

It is designed to support the cutaneous microbiome, improve barrier function and enhance the skin’s adaptive capacity to environmental stressors.

Bio-Mineral Complex

An association of essential minerals involved in cutaneous cellular functions.

It supports cellular vitality, enzymatic activity and physiological skin balance.

Biotics (Pre-, Pro- and Postbiotics)

A collective term referring to substances designed to modulate the cutaneous microbiome.

They contribute to ecosystem balance, barrier reinforcement and reduction of inflammatory reactions.

C

Carnosine

A peptide naturally present in the body.

It is recognised for its anti-glycation activity, protecting skin proteins from damage associated with premature ageing and oxidative stress.

Cell Culture

A process for producing actives from living cells cultivated in laboratory conditions.

This method enables unlimited, sustainable production while preserving natural resources.

Ceramides

Lipids naturally present in the stratum corneum.

They play a central role in cellular cohesion, limitation of transepidermal water loss and protection against external aggressors.

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

A microalgae rich in essential nutrients.

It supports skin protective mechanisms and contributes to overall skin vitality.

Comedogenic / Non-Comedogenic

A designation indicating the ability of an ingredient or formulation to clog pores.

A non-comedogenic product is formulated to limit the risk of comedone formation, an essential criterion for acne-prone skin.

Comedone

A skin lesion resulting from obstruction of a pilosebaceous follicle by excess sebum and corneous cells.

It may be open (open comedone) or closed (microcyst) and represents a key stage in the development of imperfections.

Corneometry

An instrumental method used to measure hydration levels of the stratum corneum.

It is based on skin electrical capacitance measurement and is a reference technique in clinical evaluation of moisturising efficacy.

Cranberry Extract

A natural source of antioxidant polyphenols.

It helps neutralise free radicals and limit cutaneous oxidative stress.

Cutaneous Ecosystem

The set of interactions between skin cells, microbiome, lipids and environmental factors.

Its balance is essential for maintaining healthy, functional and resilient skin.

Cutaneous Homeostasis

The skin’s ability to maintain a stable physiological balance despite environmental variations (temperature, humidity, pollution, stress).

It relies on coordinated interactions between the skin barrier, microbiome, immune mechanisms and cellular renewal processes.

E

ExoPolySaccharide Marine V2

A polysaccharide derived from marine micro-organisms.

It contributes to hydration, protection against pollution and reinforcement of the skin barrier.

F

Fermentation

A biological process using micro-organisms to transform raw materials.

It improves bioavailability, tolerance and sometimes the efficacy of cosmetic actives.

G

Glycerin

A reference humectant naturally present in the skin.

It attracts and retains water within the stratum corneum, helping maintain hydration and skin suppleness.

Glycation

A non-enzymatic biochemical process in which sugars bind to skin proteins (notably collagen and elastin), forming advanced glycation end products (AGEs).

This process alters the structure and function of dermal support fibres, contributing to premature skin ageing, loss of firmness and reduced elasticity.

Green / Botanical Biotechnology

A set of scientific processes using plant cells or micro-organisms cultured under controlled conditions.

This approach enables sustainable, traceable and reproducible production of high-purity cosmetic actives while minimising environmental impact.

H

Hyaluronic Acid – Low Molecular Weight

Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan naturally present in the skin, involved in water retention and the structure of the extracellular matrix.

Its low molecular weight form facilitates diffusion into the superficial layers of the epidermis, acting as a humectant to improve hydration, elasticity and barrier support.

I

INCI

International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, standardised list of ingredients in a product.


Active ingredient

Substance responsible for the main action of a skincare product (moisturising, anti-ageing, soothing, etc.).

K

Keratinisation

The biological differentiation process of keratinocytes as they migrate from the basal layer to the stratum corneum while producing keratin.

Balanced keratinisation is essential for proper barrier function; dysregulation may lead to roughness, comedones or excessive desquamation.

L

Lactic Acid

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally present in the Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF).

It promotes gentle exfoliation, improves skin texture and supports physiological pH while maintaining hydration.

Lipids

Essential components of the skin barrier.

They ensure cellular cohesion, protection and prevention of dehydration.

M

Micro-Organism

A microscopic organism (bacteria, yeast, fungus) that may be beneficial or pathogenic to the skin.

Microbiome (Cutaneous Microbiome)

The collection of micro-organisms living on the skin surface.

It plays a central role in immune defence, regulation of inflammation and skin balance.

N

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

A water-soluble vitamin with anti-inflammatory and regulatory properties.

It improves barrier function, regulates sebum production and contributes to even skin tone.

NMF – Natural Moisturising Factor

A set of hygroscopic substances naturally present in the stratum corneum, mainly composed of amino acids, lactates, urea and mineral salts.

NMF plays a central role in maintaining skin hydration, suppleness and barrier function.

P

Patented Complex

An exclusive combination of actives protected by intellectual property rights.

It ensures a unique formulation based on specific scientific data and targeted performance.

Physiological pH

The slightly acidic pH of the skin, approximately 5–5.5.

It is essential for enzymatic activity, microbiome balance and skin protection.

Plant Stem Cells / Native Cells

Plant cells obtained through cell culture using biotechnological processes.

They support skin protection and regeneration mechanisms without excessive harvesting of the source plant.

Postbiotic

A bioactive substance derived from the metabolic activity of probiotics.

It supports the skin barrier, soothes inflammation and offers excellent stability.

Prebiotics

Non-living substances that serve as nutrients for beneficial micro-organisms.

They promote a balanced cutaneous microbiome.

Probiotics

Living micro-organisms used to modulate the cutaneous ecosystem.

In cosmetics, they are most often used in inactivated or fermented forms.

Provitamin B5 (Panthenol)

A moisturising and repairing active ingredient.

It promotes skin regeneration, soothes irritation and improves barrier function.

Q

Quora Noni™

An active derived from Morinda citrifolia, acting through cutaneous biomimicry.

It regulates sebum production, refines the appearance of pores and contributes to microbiome balance. Its efficacy is demonstrated through in vitro and in vivo testing.

R

Rhodiola / Rhodiola rosea

An adaptogenic plant rich in antioxidant compounds.

It protects the skin against environmental stress and supports cellular adaptation mechanisms.

T

TEWL – Transepidermal Water Loss

A physiological phenomenon corresponding to continuous passive evaporation of water through the skin, independent of perspiration.

An increase in TEWL indicates impairment of the skin barrier.

Test – In Vitro

An evaluation conducted on cells or tissues in laboratory conditions to study biological mechanisms of action.

Test – In Vivo

An evaluation conducted on human volunteers to measure real-world product efficacy.

V

Vitamin C

An essential antioxidant involved in collagen synthesis.

It protects against oxidative stress and contributes to skin radiance.

Vitamin E

A lipophilic antioxidant that protects skin lipids.

It supports the skin barrier and limits oxidative damage.